Foodiespr.com is dedicated to covering the transformation of the restaurant industry as we head towards the challenges and opportunities of the 21st century. The restaurant model is constantly being streamlined, changed and adapted in the face of economic downturns and ever increasing competition.
Today, Foodies is proud to present our first feature on the people who are changing the way the culinary game is played and why restauranteurs and goers alike should pay attention. We had the privilege to enjoy a 9 course tasting at Hacienda Luz de Luna in Adjuntas where Chef Ventura Vivoni alongside his parents Edric & Luchy have converted this 350+ acre land into a truly unique culinary adventure. It’s an experience that takes us back in time to a Puerto Rico from a distant past and at the same time launches us into the future of what’s expected from a dining experience.
Is it a restaurant or is it a home?
Both! You are sure to not forget it either. Guests gather in the high ceilinged open patio for appetizers and are introduced to the family. What follows is three hours of old fashioned country hospitality. The hosts entertain and feast you in pretty much the exact same manner as an important guest would have been treated by the Hacendados of the Island’s yesteryears, when local coins were backed by sugar & coffee. If you still doubt, visit the bathrooms. It’s a full bathroom with like, a tub.
The botanical gardens
Just like silverware, your journey through the estate starts outside & works it’s way in. The first part is a half hour excursion around the gardens where an international array of exotic trees stand next to each other like llamas & lions at a zoo. Each tree has it’s own interesting story narrated by Edric Vivoni. From Neem to Ceiba to Blue Mahogony and then come the fruit trees. Starfruit, three types of oranges and lemons as large as grapefuits. Yeah we didn’t think you would believe us so we took a picture… Bam! How you like me now!
The feast.
The nine course offerings are a set menu prepared by Chef Ventura Vivoni. There are two seatings every Saturday & Sunday at 2pm & then at 6pm. The ace up the sleeve of course is the freshness & diversity of the herbs, fruits & vegetables of Hacienda Luz de Luna.
Chef Ventura Vivoni never forgets the theme and plays right to this strength all night long. On our visit we started with grated plantain fritters served with a house sauce de mami. Delicious, perfectly executed, and a nice orthodox start to what in it’s core is a play on traditional Puerto Rican food. Next we were served a deconstructed interactive soup.
The curry, crunchy corn granules & diced coconut/sweet potato were plated and presented and then the Chef came by and poured the broth into the bowls from a spouted ornate vessel (somebody please comment with what that’s called). A fine trick indeed. The heat from the curry and the snappy crackle of the corn made for a nice tickle in the throat that colored me interested in what was in store for the rest of the evening.
Third course was an orzo, mixed with a variety of house vegetables, pecans & a dash of truffle oil. It came with chicken longaniza meatballs & shaved pecorino. I’m pretty sure, all told, this was my favorite of the night. The sour of the herbs, the sharp pecorino & the lean smoothiness of the meatballs just worked in every way imaginable. It was balanced in texture & flavors and it really popped the minerals out of the eager young Priorat we were drinking.
Speaking of popping flavors, the orange/ginger/lemon sorbet that came as a palate cleanser reminded me of those ridiculous chewing gum commercials where the person experiences a supernatural blizzard in their mouth. Very lively and flavorful yet it also served it’s function and washed you clean.
We moved to the main courses and the first of the two was the night’s boldest dish, a seared mahi mahi served over diced potato & pigeon peas. This was the dish where Chef Ventura showed us just how much trust he puts in his ingredients. Once again (like all of the actual dish courses) this was served at slightly above room temperature where flavors can’t hide and freshness blooms fully. The second was a sliced filet over a plantain escabeche. The gravy was terrific.
A pretty fierce salty mango sorbet prepared you for the desserts. The first dessert course was a play on the Puerto Rican candies of old. Sickeningly sweet sticks & jellies of sugar flavored by every fruit and vegetable the island produced. Vivoni refined these monstruosities into beautifully crafted, playfully tart marmelades of Jobo & lemon that paired smashingly with good ‘ol Philly cream cheese.
I’m missing some of the words to describe the last dish, but it was a spiced chocolate dipped lemon pastry. Covered with something crunchy & zesty and hard covered chocolate candies (looked like fishbowl rocks, nice touch). Nice finish.
A History Lesson.
After coffee & a house cordial (it’s a seeecret!) we worked our way into an anteroom where Edric gives a discourse on the history of the Hacienda Luz de Luna. The tale treks you along the whole course of Puerto Rican history and again reminds you that you are not just at a dining venue, but are being entertained by a family on their storied estate.
As a last note I’d like to say that nine courses never felt heavy and that’s pretty important if your driving 2 hours back to San Juan! Maybe next time the cabins will be ready and we can spend the night. La Hacienda Luz de Luna has a perfectly cool clime and the coqui concert is at full blast.
Sounds nice, but why the importance?
Because as we leave the era of the dreaded theme restaurant that offered bad overpriced food and insincere showmanship, we are reminded that there was something in that experience that was valid and that is why people went. Because dining isn’t just about dining anymore. We expect great food because we have grown accustomed to the machinations of big city dining and the creativity of the talented men & women of the culinary arts. As competition for your night out grows, we expect more and more from the dining experience. We want to learn, see nature & be entertained all in one. That’s why this old fashioned experience is st the forefront of the culinary revolution.
For reservations email vivoni.ventura@gmail.com or call 787.829.9095/787.210.6908
Thanx for all folks.. you know we made it from the heart.. for reservations also contact us @ http://www.haciendaluzdeluna.info